Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt Sahib

Our planned itinerary

Day 0 - Delhi to Rishikesh (220 km /6 hours) - overnight bus
Day 1 - Rishikesh to Badrinath (300 km / 12 hours) - bus/sumo
Day 2 - Badrinath Darshan - ride to Govindghat (25 km) - trek to Ghanghria (14km / 4-5 hours)
Day 3 - round trek to Hemkunt Sahib(6km + 6km) - night stay at Ghanghria
Day 4 - Valley of Flowers ( 4 + 4 km + as far as you go inside) - trek down to Govindghat.
Day 5 - early morning bus/sumo till Rishikesh - bus ride back to delhi

What we ended up doing

Day 0 - Delhi to Rishikesh (220 km /6 hours) - overnight bus
Day 1 - Sleeping at Rishikesh - waiting for landslide to be cleared
Day 2 - Rishikesh to GovindGhat (280 km) - landslide before Badrinath
Day 3 - trek to Ghanghria (14km) - round trek to Hemkunt Sahib(6km + 6km)
Day 4 - Valley of Flowers ( 6 + 6 km) - trek down to Govindghat.
Day 5 - sumo till Rishikesh, drove around landslide at karnprayag - bus ride back to delhi

Useful information

Delhi - Rishikesh highway is blocked by kawarians during the month of sawan. Buses take the alternate route via Dehradun, Saharanpur. Takes longer and roads are bad. Rishikesh and haridwar would be packed with people. Better avoid this month.

Valley of flowers would have maximum blooming during monsoons (July/Aug). However, monsoon means rains and more landslides. Carry a raincoat and water-proof your bags. Be prepared to be flexible with your planning and spend some time in studying the main route and alternative roads. Landslides may take 2 - 24 hours to be cleared. If your path gets blocked, options are to wait for the road to be cleared or to drive around it via some other route. In some cases you can walk over the landslide and catch a ride from the other side. We had to wait a full day at Rishikesh while going up. On the way back we had to take a detour via Chopta at Karnaprayag.

Buses from Rishikesh to Badrinath start at Tehri Bus stand. You can also catch a sumo/bus at petrol pumps in front of the gurudwara. First buses start early morning around 5 am. Buses to Delhi start at a different roadways bus-stand.

At Govindghat you can easily get a room for 200/300 Rs. Only CellOne network is active and landline STD services were shaky. There are a few dhabas but nothing great. Langar at Gurudwara might be a good option. You can leave your extra luggage at the cloak room run by the Gurudwara. Porters and ponies are easily available. They quote a fixed rate but are open to some negotiation.

All things on the way are sold at twice the marked price. After having maggi, we were shocked to be charged 80 Rs for two plates. We also ended up paying 25 Rs for a bottle of water.

GMVN guesthouse at Ghanghria seemed to be the best option. Food and service was excellent. Rooms are a bit pricey at 750 Rs. But you can check into a dorm at 150Rs per bed. There are plenty of dorm rooms so if you are a little lucky, you will have the entire room to yourself. Rooms were also available at small hotels for around 200 Rs. Most Sikhs stay at the Gurudwara so inspite of the pilgrim rush, there is no shortage of cheap rooms.

We carried a tent with us but didn't find much use for it. Camping is not allowed inside valley of flowers and no good camping site between ghanghria and the valley. Staying is not permitted at Hemkunt Sahib. Only good camping spot are a kilometer before ghanghria around the helipad. Tents, sleeping bags, mats and other camping gear are also available at rent at Govindghat.

Trek to Hemkunt Sahib is very steep and tiring. Night stay is not permitted. Try to start early morning so that you are able to come back on time. We did the Hemkunt Sahib trek on the same day as Ghanghria trek but it was really grueling. If weather is bad, it might get very cold at Hemkunt, so carry sufficient woolens. My advice would be to avoid taking steps and stick to the trek.

Valley of flower trek is pretty gentle. Nothing is available inside, so its a good idea to pack a small picnic basket. Please don't leave any garbage or plastic behind. You can explore as deep as you like but stick to the trail. After a couple of kilometers the trail becomes very thin. Its worth the effort to go upto legge's grave.

Buses/sumo/qualis ply between Govindghat and Rishikesh. Buses have to be booked the previous night. There is a time based unidirectional flow of traffic between Joshimath and Badrinath. The first gate at Govindghat opens at 7:50 am. So if you want to start earlier, you might consider reaching Joshimath the previous night. Travel is not allowed after dark on the Badrinath highway.


Thursday, 2nd Aug, 7:00 pm

I am sitting in a small room of Shiva resort at Rishikesh, some 400 meters from Ram Jhula. The room is comfortable and the resort is open and green. Coming from an expensive place like Delhi, the room is a good bargain at 300 Rs. Its not the worst place to be spending a day in. About 5 minutes walk away, the Holy Ganges is flowing in full monsoon glory. In the morning, when I laid eyes on the fierce flow of the muddy water, I was awed. The fury of the water had submerged the banks and the ghats, and it was wider than I have ever seen at Risihikesh. A layer of mist had formed on the surface making the water level appear a lot higher than it actually was. Curving and bending it seemed like a giant anaconda ready to swallow whatever comes in its path. This however, did nothing to deter the faith of the devotees, who come to take a dip in the holy water and wash away their sins. This was also the month of Sawan, and millions of kawarias flock the city from far off places to fetch the holy water to the temples in their villages and cities. Dressed in saffron, Bhole-Bhole on their tongue, they would walk several 100 kilometers, carrying the Gangajal on a balance pole (kawar).

I had not planned to stay in this room, or in this city. 22 hours earlier, when I and my companion Pratyush(PK) had boarded a bus to Rishikesh, I had only one thing on my mind - Valley of flowers. The bus was rattling everywhere, the seats rather uncomfortable, and the air was choked with the smoke of bidis that everyone including the bus driver and conductor puffed on, blatantly ignoring the no-smoking sign painted on the front. I took comfort in the fact that each minute in the bus was taking me closer to the place, I had planned on visiting for the last two years. Reaching Hardwar around 5 am, we had quickly got ourselves on a bus to Badrinath. We had intended to visit the Badrinath temple with the first light of the next day, catch a bus to Govindghat and start the 14 km trek for Ghangaria, which is 4 km from the valley. No sooner had we started to get ourselves settled for the 12 hour ride, we were stopped by police and informed that the highway is closed due to a landslide. No one knew when the road would be cleared.

We have spent most of the day, sleeping. The disappointment of the break in journey have filled us with a strange lethargy. Neither the temptation of a refreshing dip nor the promise of a place in heaven, have been able to drag us to the ghats of the Holy Ganga. We just went out on a reconnaissance mission to check out the bus-stops and the bus timings to Badrinath. What we don't know is whether the route will be cleared up for the following morning. It is our only chance, for we could not afford to wait another day. Before starting we had been warned about the landslides and kawarias. We were prepared for small delays and discomforts. But we were not prepared to turn back. Yet now we could only pray and hope that this is precisely not what we would be forced to do, the next morning. It all rests on fate....


Friday, 3rd Aug, 10:00 pm



We have reached Govindghat, checked into a hotel after a light dinner and are preparing for bed. It was a long journey but filled with most breathtaking views. The road twists and turns continuously amidst a background of green mountains. Ganges flows parallel to the road, sometimes nearby, sometimes deep down in the valley, but never out of sight. The path is often crossed by small streams, that flows down from some secret location in the mountains and join the river below. I have been on this route several times but I can never get tired of the abundance of beauty that is sprawled in each corner.

Our day started early at 4am. We woke up the manager to pay for the room, but only after we made him promise that he would take us in if we come back an hour later. It was still dark outside when we stepped out of the resort. Ram Jhula was a sharp contrast to the madness of the day. The faceless crowd had been replaced by a handful of devotes taking a dip. Bright yellow lights were getting reflected in the blackness of the water. There was a slight drizzle in the air. It was serene and inviting but we had no time to waste. Hitching a ride with a group of kawarias, and walking the remaining 1.5 kilometers to the Tehri Bus stand, we reached almost too early. As we handed the ticket money, we were afraid it would be refunded an hour later. By now it was raining quite heavily.

The bus started 45 minutes later, stopping to pick pre-booked passengers on the way, each stop adding to our anxiety. The highway had been turned into a dumping ground of debris by the frequent landslides. The pile of huge rocks stacked up on the sides of the road, made us appreciate why it could take so long to clear the block. Crossing the point where we had been stopped the previous morning was the first good sign, but it wasn't before another 50 kilometers that we finally relaxed. Yes, we are on our way..

First came Srinagar, followed by Devprayag, Karanprayag, Nandprayag and Rudraprayag. After 6 hours of drive, we were almost halfway there. A welcome break at Pipalkoti for lunch and we were on our seats again. The relentless journey was finally broken up at Joshimath. There had been another landslide near Badrinath and our bus would not go any further. "Way to Govindghat is still open" and that's where we decided to spend the night. A quick change of bus got us to Govindghat, a small settlement on the banks of Hem Ganga, serving mainly as the road base for Hemkunt Sahib and Valley of flowers trek. Govindghat is made up of a Gurudwara, some small hotels and a row of small shops mostly selling prasad and religious stuff. On the bus we made friends with a couple of tour operators who are now sharing the four bed room with us.

Everyone else except me has gone to sleep. It has been a long day and we would again start early the next morning. A little while back, we had decided that we would not be able to carry all of 24 kg luggage during the trek. After some discussion we left behind the tent, all the camping gear, extra clothing, and managed to get down the load to half. Leaving behind stuff is like cleaning up disk space on your computer. You are not sure if you are going to need a certain file but you don't want to delete it just in case you do. My eyes are getting heavier now and I should get some rest as well. Hope we have a clear weather tomorrow...


Saturday, 4th Aug, 8:00 pm


My legs hurt, my shoulders hurt and my back hurts worst of all. I have spent the last hour in bed. Pk is spread out in a similar condition on the adjacent bed. He hasn't moved for a long time but I think he is still alive. Both of us have already taken a double dose of paracetamol. My belly is demanding re-fueling after all the energy I have spent, but I don't feel like getting out of bed. I wish I was at home eating pooris out of my mom's hands. But I am 25 hours from home, in a dormitory of the GMVN guest-house at Ghangaria. It has been a grueling day, with 14 km trek to Ghangaria, and 12 km tough, tough, tough return trip to Hemkunt Sahib. If I ever have been more tired in my life, I just don't remember it.


It was raining and quite dark outside, when I got up at 5 am. Looked like it had been raining all night. Rain was just what we didn't need ahead of a full day of trekking. After waiting for an hour, we decided we had to get going anyway. After depositing our spare luggage at the Gurudwara, we set off with several other Sikh pilgrims. My poncho (single piece raincoat with split sides) covered the bag as well, so I would have the bag on my shoulders as long as it continued to rain. "Its better if it rains for a while" remarked pk - he does have a sick sense of humor. I tried to imagine that climbing with the bag was just part of my Everest training. Yes, ever-since I read Tenzing's autobiography, Everest is on my list of places to go. Slowly we settled into our rhythm and concentrated on the beautiful surroundings. The path ran through a forest surrounded by mountains with Hemganga flowing violently to our right.

After 3km, we crossed a small village. The bag was proving to be a bit heavier than I would like but every so often a passerby would remark "itna bada bag leke chad rahe ho" and that would bring a spring to my step - oh what an ego. Finally it stopped raining after a couple of hours. I quickly split the bag in two and handed the heavier one to pk. Mid way we stopped for a cup of tea and maggi. While paying I was shocked to be charged 80 bucks. Everything was being sold for double the price and afterwards we were careful not to order anything without asking the price first.

Pk on move is a perfect example of a tortoise. He would walk at a leisurely pace, sometimes even bordering on painfully slow. But he is sure to beat the hare with his persistence, for he would continue to walk kilometer after kilometer without ever stopping for a breath. On the entire 28 km (both-ways) between Govindghat and Ghangaria, he stopped not more than twice. I prefer to go a little faster, so I would build up a lead, find myself a nice spot, and wait for pk to pass me while I enjoyed the scenery.

The later part of the trek had a lot more signs of landslide activity. The climb got a bit steeper at the end and we were exhausted by the time we reached Ghangaria. Just before Ghangaria there is a helipad and a beautiful camping site. Ghangaria itself, is a long row of hotels and shops, on both sides of a muddy road. We quickly checked into the GMVN dorm at 150 Rs per bed. The rooms were a bit pricey at 750 Rs. The dorm had 5 double-storeyed beds but none were occupied. After a quick lunch, we started for the valley of flowers. It was 12:00 pm by now and was raining again.

There is a common path out of Ghangaria that forks into two after a kilometer. The straight road continues to Hemkunt Sahib while the one on the left takes you to the valley of flowers. We decided that we won't be able to enjoy the valley in such weather and would rather go to Hemkunt Sahib. The trek to Hemkunt Sahib is so steep that you gain an altitude of 1.3 km over a distance of 6 km. The rains made it humid and we were sweating in our raincoats as we climbed. Very quickly we gained a decent height and could see Ghangaria much below us. I took the first opportunity to get rid of the raincoat and did the rest of the trek with a gentle drizzle against my face. Looking back it was much pleasant to do the trek in a cooling shower than to have the sun beating down on us.

The trek to Hemkunt Sahib is up the face of the mountain. Looking down we had wonderful views of the valley and the mountains on the opposite side. One look up and we couldn't believe how much we have yet to climb. By now we had been walking for 3 hours. Combined with the 14 km trek to Ghangaria, we were dead tired and our progress was slow. It was not raining but the weather remained pretty bad. We couldn't see more than 200m ahead in the mist and clouds, and were not sure how much distance is still remaining. Everyone else that we met was going down, and the few going up were hurrying past on the back of mules. Pilgrims are not allowed to spend the night at Hemkunt Sahib and we realized we were running terribly late if we are to come back.

A little later we hit a point where you had an option of taking steps. Standing on the foot of the steps, I could only see them disappear behind the clouds. With no idea of how many there were, we took the steps anyway, to save time. By now I was running on reserve and Pk almost out of gas. Steps didn't prove too kind on his knees and he started to stop for rest every 5 minutes. I was not enjoying them either, but I did my best to encourage him to keep going. By now, we couldn't see any other soul around us. Pk suggested that we should go back but I said its not the Everest that we are climbing. The news of a few people dying at Hemkunt Sahib due to cold was still fresh in our minds. Suddenly I saw a Sardarji climbing the steps behind us. I don't think I have ever been happier to see a Sardar in my life. It was such a relief to know that you are not the only two fools left on earth. So the three fools started climbing again.

Everytime we would feel that this must be the last 100 steps, only to get there and find another set of steps. We kept climbing and then at last there were no more steps - we had reached the top. By the time we reached it was 4 pm and so foggy we couldn't see much of anything. A sign board in the middle of a huge empty space declared that there was a lake there, somewhere. Suddenly a Sardarji in a dark blue knee length skirt and a yellow turban with a dagger hanging by his side, came shouting at us - "tusi hun ki kar rahe ho". I guess he was surprised to find us there at that late hour. He declared that there is no place to stay at Hemkunt Sahib and we must go down immediately. When we told him that we are coming from Govindghat and dead tired, he turned a bit kinder. He asked us to take a dip in the lake and come for Langar. One hand in the icy cold water convinced us we were not going inside. We were not carrying towels or clothes anyway. So we just washed our hands and faces, and went in the hall. We were served some khichdi and hot tea.

Now, I generally don't believe in miracles but what happened in those 30 minutes was nothing sort of one. When we sat down for the Langar, we were totally exhausted. The weather outside continued to be bad. It was getting darker and threating to rain anytime. We realized that if it started raining we would be in real trouble. But as I had one spoonful of khichdi, after another, I was abruptly filled with a feeling of goodness. Sipping on the cup of tea, all tiredness evaporated out of my body. I felt like I had been reborn, full of energy. Pk was also beginning to grin in a way that comes so naturally to him, when he is in a good mood. We came out to find the sun shining brightly. All the clouds had gone into a hiding somewhere. It was now, the beauty of the place hit us. The structure of the Gurudwara standing against the background of mountains. The clear water of the lake reflecting the green and brown of the surroundings. The stillness and quite around us. We were no longer in any hurry. We sat about taking pictures of the lake. Going down 6 km no longer seemed much of an issue - hell we felt like we could climb right up. We felt blessed by the pleasant sun rays. It was finally the same Sardarji who drove us out of the place saying it was getting late.

We almost raced down. The steep slope that had killed us while going up, now gave us wings. It felt wonderful to be out on the trek alone - without the usual rush of people and mules. On the way down, I spotted several different flowers and among them Brahmakamals. After getting some nice shots, we continued to speed down. Within an hour, we could see Ghangharia below us. The sun was beginning to set now but there was fair amount of light. No longer afraid of getting stuck midway, we sat down on a large rock to soak in the scenery around us. We sat there for a long time, till the light begin to fade. This time we walked slowly, with none of the previous urgency or energy. It had been a long tiring day. We had been up for more than 12 hours and had spent most of it walking. It took longer to get down than we had expected, but we were not in any hurry. As our bodies cooled down, it started to hurt everywhere. We were reduced to a bundle of aching muscles. Somehow we found our beds and crashed.

Thats where I have been lying for the last hour. A few times it crossed my mind if we would be able to walk to the valley of flowers tomorrow. But I already know the answer to that. In truth, I am feeling a little disappointed in myself. It had been a tough day but I didn't expect my body to betray me like this, to be in such agony. But I know it will bounce right back tomorrow, ready for another adventure, another day of walking. All it need is a good meal and a night of sound sleep, and I am sure we are going to sleep like logs tonight....


Sunday, 5th August, 11 am


"In all my mountain wandering, I have not seen a more beautiful valley where the human spirit may find repose"
- Frank Smythe

I am in heaven. No I haven't died, I am more alive than ever before. I am lying on a thick carpet of grass, adorned with several different floral patterns. The sky is clear blue with a few white clouds playing around. A cool breeze is blowing, making the flowers dance to its tune. The sun is shining brightly. It was getting into my eyes a bit when a little cloud floated across to cover it. "Everything is going to be perfect for you today", it seems to be saying with a slight grin on its face. Honey bees are flying around me, playing with the delicate flowers. Sometimes they come and sit on me. I let them without any protest or resistance. I am sure they have no reason to sting me. They know, that although I have encroached upon their land, I mean no harm to them or to their flowers. The carpet of grass and flowers extend through out the valley, continuing up the slope of the mountains that bound the valley on two sides. Small streams are flowing down the mountain, right across the valley, into the HemGanga below. At the far end of the valley, a snow covered peak is hiding behind a lonely cloud.

This is the Valley of Flowers, home to over 300 species of wild flowers, a World Heritage site. I am near the grave of Joan Margaret Legge, a botanist who fell to her death here in 1939. "I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills from whence cometh my strength" reads the gravestone. 15 minutes earlier, Pk and I were sitting beside the grave. Now I am alone. No, he has not been taken by her ghost. He is walking back, but I stayed for a little longer. I wanted to be alone amidst all this beauty. I know I need to get going now, otherwise Pk would wait for me and get worried. But its proving difficult to leave. All I want to do is to just keep lying here....

I woke up in the morning to find a crystal clear sky. This was certainly different from the previous 3 days. "Its a lovely weather for the Valley" remarked the GMVN attendant. Looks like our decision of going to Hemkunt Sahib yesterday, is going to be a good one. GMVN guys have been really good to us - very hospitable and friendly. After preparing a breakfast of aaloo paranthas, they also packed us a couple of sandwiches for the Valley.

There was a rush of Sikh pilgrims, but surprisingly not even one of them turned towards the Valley. A small check post at the entrance displayed a map of the area and a list of some of the more commonly found species of flowers. We found ourselves walking through a beautiful forest. Already there were several different species of flowers on both sides of the trail. I began clicking my digicam like crazy, while Pk held onto his role for later.

The Valley starts after 3 km from the check post. Its a mild trek and you gain an altitude of nearly 500 m. The path goes through a forest, crossing a frozen stream, onto a bridge over the ferocious Hem Ganga, followed by a climb on the other side. The trail was narrow here with flower cover thickening on both sides. As we gained altitude, the forest started giving away. A recent landslide was blocking the way, forcing us to climb over the rock and dirt.



Eventually the trail leveled out, and we could see the valley a kilometer away. HemGanga was flowing to our right, covered at some places with snow. Opposite us a vertical cliff was rising a few hundred feet. We crossed another frozen stream. 15 minutes later we were into the valley.

Even from a distance we could make out the purple over the green valley. Now the flowers were everywhere. We were literally walking between flowers. I think its quite useless to say that I had never before seen so many flowers. The flower cover was so thick that we were forced to stick to the narrow trail. "It is so beautiful" - thats the thought that kept repeating in my mind. Now even Pk got his camera out. He had saved his role earnestly for this, and I think it was worth it. Pk was taking my pic, when a Japanese guy offered to shoot both of us. As it turned out this is the only pic of the trip with both of us in it. Talking to him, revealed that he had flown down to India specifically to see the Valley.

As we were marveling at all the beauty around us, we met three person who made me realize how different perceptions can be. All three of them were from Ludhiana and had come to visit Hemkunt Sahib. Spare time had prompted them to come to the Valley. Now they couldn't understand what the fuss was all about. "There are more flowers in my backyard. Will it get any better further" one of them remarked with a disapproving look. I got angry at their remark. I felt as if they are being critical of something personal to me. I thought that some people can only find beauty in a free langar. I told them that they should not waste their time in going further. I also asked for an invitation to visit their backyard sometime.

Moving on we hit the documentary team from Japan. They were shooting a documentary for a local channel. One of the girls told us that we are really lucky to get such sunny weather. They had been trying to shoot for the past seven days but it just wouldn't stop raining. Only today they had been able to get some work done. Personally, I wouldn't have minded a slight drizzle but rains would have definitely been a big spoilsport.

Continuing on the trail we reached a small stream. A wooden bridge had been constructed over the stream. We had a drink out of the refreshing cold water and sat down for our sandwiches. After eating, Pk picked out a grass clearing and lied down. We were determined to go as far into the valley as time would allow us. So we moved on even after the trail started to blend into the flowers. Clearly this part was not very frequently visited. We kept moving forward forcing our way through. Every so often, we would spot a species of flower that we hadn't seen earlier.

We hit another stream, this time without a bridge. A big leap would have taken us across but we sat down at the edge wondering if we should go any further. We would have gone back if we hadn't met a Bengali group who were coming back from Legge's grave. They told us that it was less than a kilometer ahead. A little further the trail forked into two, with the right one turning back towards the grave.

We had been sitting near the grave for half an hour, when Pk left. I had told him that I would follow after 5 minutes but I don't feel like going back. It seems like such a perfect place for an undisturbed reading or sleep. Its such a shame that I can't spend the night here. Its such a shame that I can't stay here longer, probably for a lifetime. But I would go back and what would remain with me are the memories of being at a place whose beauty can't be described with words, whose beauty can't be shown by pictures, whose beauty can only be experienced.

"You cannot stay on the mountain forever. You have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher.
- Rene Daumel, Mont Analogue







Tuesday, 7th Aug, 1:30 am

According to plan, I should have been home right now, nestled up in my cozy bed. But things have rarely gone to plan on this trip. Instead, I am in the middle of a deserted road, few kilometers before Saharanpur. Our Uttrakhand Parivahan bus is standing a few steps away from us. The driver is trying to crank it up after every five minutes. Initially, I was hoping that it would start any moment and we would be on our way. But after an hour, all of us have given up hope. We are trying to stop some bus going in the right direction. A few minutes ago, a UP Parivan bus sped past our outstretched hands. "Saale UP wale nahi rokenge" came a piece of Gyaan from our driver. Apparently there aren't such good relations between UP Parivahan and Uttrakhand Parivahan. I lift up my head to look at the bright moon in the sky. Its a beautiful night. Still I would rather be home than in the middle of nowhere.

My feelings right now are in exact contrast to the peace I felt in the Valley yesterday. After staying near Legge's grave for almost an hour, I finally made myself to get up and walk back. It was a long solitary walk, one that I wished would never end. It was only after an hour that I saw Pk sitting on a rock beside a stream. There was another family sitting beside him. The family consisted of two adults, two kids and two elders who were traveling on an open doli carried by four porters each. There was a look of exhaustion and disappointment on there faces. The effort was proving too much and their tired souls were unable to see the beauty around them. They were going to turn back just at the edge of the valley. Even later, I have heard so many people remark how the valley wasn't as beautiful as they expected. I am not sure how to react to that. Perhaps, I am a little too easy to please. Perhaps, I am able to find beauty in a lot of things that others ignore. But the fact is that the Valley would remain one of the most beautiful places that I have been to.

After a quick sip from the stream and a gentle splash on the face, we started back. Back at the guest-house, we had a quick lunch, paid our bills and packed our bags. It was already 2:30 pm, but we were hoping to get back by 5, and grab a transport till Joshimath or further. Again didn't turn out the way we planned, and we were only midway by 4:30 pm. We decided to spend the night at Govindghat. By the time we reached Govindghat, we were dead tired and had just enough strength to find a room and crash to our beds. For dinner, we had a packet of biscuits.

Early in the morning, we found a shared Sumo for the ride back. Pk and I occupied the front two seats which offered a lovely view throughout the journey. The middle seats were occupied by two Sikh couples, and the back seats were filled by 4 youths from Ludhiana. The Sumo ride was much interesting than the bus ride coz we had the whole view in front of us. It was also nice to chat to the driver and gather some information about the place. We stopped at Pipalkoti for breakfast and were relieved to know that our Hutch connection was back. Inspite of the PCOs at Govindghat, we had remained disconnected from the world for 3 days now. A quick call to home on the way telling them that we were expected back around midnight. That plan changed soon enough. At Karanprayag, we were told that 5 km further the road is blocked by landslides. No one knew how much time it would take for the road to be cleared. The driver told us that there was an alternate route via Chopta. The detour would take us around the landslide to rejoin the main highway at Rudraprayag but it would cost us an extra 3 hours and 50 bucks each.

I was more worried about the extra 3 hours. It meant we would not be able to reach Delhi before next morning. But still it was better than waiting for the landslide to be cleared which might take another day. I decided to play it cool, forget about plans and enjoy the new ride. However, the Sikh couple had a major fight with the driver over the extra 50 bucks. They insisted that the driver should take them to Rishikesh on the agreed fare. There was a heated argument between them but finally we were able to convince them. So we left the highway and took to the small hilly road. Once I got over the upset schedule, it was actually quite a fun ride. We climbed over the hill driving on a small road through the lovely forests. We stopped near a hand-pump to fill our water bottles. The water was so chilled and refreshing that I couldn't resist splashing it all over my face and hair.

We were in Rudraprayag 3 hours later but still a long way from home. I had given up on any timetable by now and was just trying to enjoy the way. Few hours from Rishikesh, it started raining heavily. The sumo's wipers weren't in the best condition and we were also worried about more landslides. Sardarji in the back started singing some religious songs. I don't understand Punjabi well but he did have a deep resonating voice. It was getting dark by the time we reached Kaudilya, around 30 km from Rishikesh. I thought just an hour to go now but that again was not to be. We ran into two sumos in front. One of them had a totally dead battery and hence no horn, indicators or head light. Everytime the engine shut down, the occupants had to push it for a jump-start. It was decided that we would lead the sumo with our tail lights while the other sumo would light up the road from behind. Wasn't easy synchronizing the speed of all three vehicles in the dark. Our driver had been driving for 12 hours by then, and he was clearly in stress guiding the faulty vehicle. Our procession was slowed down considerably and it was not before 9 pm that we finally reached Rishikesh.

Rishikesh was still flooded by all the kawarians. We quickly got down our luggage and started for the bus stop. All the vikrams that passed us by were already jam packed. Some even had passengers on the roof. We were told that the bus stop was only a kilometer down the road, but we had already walked more. We managed to convince an auto-rikshaw to drop us to the bus stop - at a hefty fees ofcourse. But the moment we landed at the bus stop and saw a deluxe bus ready to depart for Delhi any minute, we felt that the extra fees was worth it. It was a much better bus than the one we had arrived in and we even got two seats in the front. We put the semi-sleeper seats back and made ourselves comfortable for a nice sleep. We felt lucky at having just caught this bus.

The luck didn't last for long, however. The bus and all its passengers are now standing in the middle of the road. People in cars and buses are passing us with a smile, that the misfortune of others so often brings to our faces. Sitting there under moonlight, in this hopeless situation, the same question is popping up in my mind, again and again. With the landslides, delays, uncomfortable bus rides, grueling trek, bad food - was it really worth it. Surprisingly the answer is still yes. Those few hours we spent in the Valley and the feelings we had at the Hemkunt Sahib were well worth all the inconveniences that we had to bear. Not to mention experiencing the beauty of the Nature all along the way. And the landslides and the bus rides had been an adventure of a sort. Once I am able to make it back home, I know I will come back to these mountains. For nowhere else have I experienced a greater bliss. But atleast for the next few times, I think I will stay away from the Parivahan buses.


My Pics

Valley of Flowers

Pk's pics

Valley of Flowers

Hemkunt Sahib

To the source of the Ganga

I had wanted to go to Gaumukh/Tapovan ever since I heard the experiences of a few office friends who had been there. They had the most wonderful stories to tell about the place. How the Bhagirathi emerges from the mouth of the Gaumukh glacier, how they trekked over the glacier to reach Tapovan, about the Babaji who stays at Tapovan all year round, how they had khichdi at Tapovan that seemed to be cooked in kerosene oil. Most of all they were mesmerized by the beauty of the place and used the word 'heaven' a lot in their description.

We finally made up a plan for Gangotri/Gaumukh/Tapovan in June 2006. I was joined by two colleagues from office - Satish and Deepak Rath. We worked out a rough itinerary and booked a taxi. Our plan was...

Day 0 - Leave Delhi around 10pm - overnight to Rishikesh - 226 km drive on NH-58
Day 1 - Rishikesh to Gangotri(3048m) - 253 km drive via Uttarkashi
Day 2 - Gangotri to Bhojbasa(3792m) - 14km trek via Chirbasa(3350m)
Day3 - Bhojbasa to Tapovan(4463m) via Gaumukh(4000m) - trek 4 + 4 km - back to Bhojbasa
Day4 - Bhojbasa to Gangotri, drive back to Delhi


Day 0 - Leaving Delhi

We stumbled into our first road-block even before we started. I had booked a cab from the local taxi stand. The cab was supposed to pick me up at 10 pm after which we would pick up Satti and Rath from the office (Noida). At 9:30 pm, I called up the taxi stand to confirm the status. To my dismay, I was told that the driver who was supposed to come with us had fallen sick. I urged the person to arrange another cab from somewhere. After a while, he called back to tell me that an Indica is supposed to arrive from Agra around 11 pm and he has agreed to go to Gangotri. We waited anxiously for the Indica to arrive. By 12 am, we were really frustrated and no longer sure if we would be able to leave. To my great relief, the car finally arrived at 1 am. However, the driver was very reluctant to go on this route. He was concerned about the bad roads. He was also afraid that the Uttaranchal police was being very strict on cabs operating without commercial license. He was convinced that the other taxi-wala was just faking sickness. I assured him that nothing would happen and also offered him some extra trip. We picked up Satti and Rath, and started toward Rishikesh, nearly 3 hours late from our plan.

Luckily, we didn't run into much traffic and made swift progress. The driver cribbed for a while but soon settled in a holiday mood with us. Midway, we stopped for a cup of tea and had aaloo paranthas that I had got from home. On the way, we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise. Neither of us are used to waking up early so this was indeed a rare sight for us. We reached Rishikesh around 6 am and continued towards Uttarkashi.


Day 1 - Rishikesh to Gangotri

Right after Rishikesh, the hilly route starts. The mountain surroundings provide a spectacular view. Rishikesh to Gangotri is roughly 256 km and approximately 11-12 hour drive. The route goes via Narendranagar, Chamba, Dharasu, Uttarkashi, Maneri and Hasil. Uttarkashi is 155 km from Rishikesh, on the bank of Bhagirathi. Bhagirathi emerges from the Gaumukh glacier and joins Alaknanda at Deoprayag to form the Holy Ganges. Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) is also located at Uttarkashi. We stopped at Uttarkashi for lunch. After lunch, I caught up with the night's lost sleep as we drove on from Uttarkashi. After Hasil, our driver realized that due to the climb the car was burning more diesel than he expected, and we wouldn't have enough to come back. There were no petrol pumps from now on. We tried to buy some diesel from shops but without any luck. With no alternative we decided to keep going till Gangotri. In the worst case, one of us would have to hitch a ride to get some diesel in a can. The condition of the road deteriorated rapidly as we approached Gangotri. Some sections of the road were completely broken. We managed to reach Gangotri before dark.

As the source of the Ganges, Gangotri is one of the holiest places in India. According to Hindu mythology, King Bhagiratha persuaded the Goddess Ganga to come down from heaven so that he could release the tormented souls of his ancestors. It is at Gangotri that Lord Shiva received the Ganga in his matted locks to break the impact of her fall. Hundreds of years back, the entire stretch of land from Gaumukh to Gangotri was actually covered with Glaciers and Ganga did emerge from this place. Since then the glacier has receded more than 14 km.

Gangotri is crowded with dharamshalas, hotels and lodges. We found a cheap room in a lodge (300 Rs for the night). After unloading our luggage, we walked to the river through a narrow crowded market. On the bank of the river is the holy temple of Ganga originally constructed by Gorkha Commander Amar Singh Thapa of Nepal. Deciding that it was too late for the temple, we crossed the bridge to get to the other side of the river. We remained along the river bank enjoying the surroundings till it got dark. After that we came back to the lodge. The lodge owner introduced us to a guide and insisted that a guide was must if we wanted to go till Tapovan. We settled at a rate of Rs 300 per day with food and lodging extra. Looking back, hiring a guide proved to be a total waste. There is a clear trek till Gaumukh and the further trail to Tapovan is usually marked with little piles of stone. So we ended up spending about 1200 Rs just for walking with him. After dinner we went to bed planning to start real early the next day.

Day 2 - Gangotri to Bhojbasa

I woke up in the morning to find it was drizzling outside. I went to the balcony. It was a wonderful view with the small drops falling against a background of huge mountains. But I knew rain was not good for our plan. I have always believed that rains make for the most difficult trekking conditions. Fortunately it was not raining that hard right now. We had a cup of tea and got ready. For the next hour we waited for our guide to show up. The rain only got heavier and we were feeling a little anxious by now. Our guide showed up at 8:30 am. Apparently he was waiting for the rain to stop. By now we had accepted the fact that we would be trekking in rain. We bought large polythene raincoats to cover ourselves and started the trek.


The trek starts through a preserved forest area. We paid for the forest permits at a small counter. A sign-board put up there said no polythene allowed but I don't think it acted as much deterrent. Later on we spotted a number of discarded polythene bags and wrappers through out the trek and at Bhojbasa there was a plastic dump. I wish more is done to spread awareness and punish the offenders. All of us must take care not to leave behind non-disposable wastes at such places.

The forest soon thinned into a landscape of brown and grey, with framed views of the mountains in front. The trek is fairly well maintained and hugs the river in most parts. The rain stopped after we had trekked for an hour. On the way we came across a stream falling down the side of the hill and flowing right across the trek into the Bhagirathi below. A rudimentary bridge was constructed over the stream by keeping two wooden logs side by side. We crossed plenty such bridges till Bhojbasa and everytime it was a mini adventure. At couple of intermediate stops, there were small chai-shops inside small plastic tents.

8 km of trekking brings you to Chirbasa. The place derives its name from the pine (chir) trees that grows there. There is a forest bungalow and few dhabas at Chirbasa. Few chairs were laid out in a beautiful location in front of a dhaba. We sat down for a rest and ordered tea and maggi.

Above Chirbasa, the valley widens, and offers views of snow-clad peaks in the south. It is a gentle walk to Bhojbasa (3792m). We reached Bhojbasa around 2pm. Bhojbasa is named so after the silver birch trees. Growing to about 15ft, the silver birch is a very attractive tree. The bark of the tree is a fine, slightly brittle material, and tends to curl. Before paper came to India, manuscripts were written on this bark called the 'bhojpatra'. Although we didn't really see too many trees at Bhojbasa.

Bhojbasa is the widest point in the upper valley with a wonderful view of the Bhagirathi peaks. Almost everyone coming to Gaumukh or Tapovan, plans a stopover at Bhojbasa. There is a GMVN guesthouse and Lal Baba's Ashram for accommodation. Few tent like structures were constructed along the trek by putting thick plastic covers over stone walls and wooden frames. The front of each tent had an oven and acted as a dhaba with chairs spread out in open. The back of the tent had beddings laid out in two rows that acted as a small 20 people dormitory at Rs 80 per head.


We occupied the chairs in front of the first tent. We had a lunch of aaloo paranthas with pickle and a cup of tea. During lunch we met an elderly couple that had come from Haryana for the Gangotri/Gaumukh pilgrimage. Both of them were in their late fifties. We were really surprised to find out that they had planned to cover the entire Gangotri - Gaumukh trek and back to Gangotri in a single day. They had left Gangotri with sunrise and were now already on their way back from Gaumukh. Everyone at Gangotri had told them that it would be impossible to do the return trip of 36 km in a day, specially at their slow pace. I admit it did look a daunting task even for us. But they believed in themselves and were about to prove that nothing is impossible once you set your mind to it. After lunch we discussed the idea of going to Tapovan the same day. We were a little tired but felt we had enough time to do another 8 km to Tapovan. Satti and I were really tempted by the idea of spending the night there. Even though we were not carrying tents, we knew that we would be able to stay at one of the ashrams. However, our guide was convinced that it was too late. He maintained that it would be a big risk to start for Tapovan with tired legs and it would be too cold at Tapovan to spend the night. Satti and I didn't agree with him and we even thought about hiring another guide to take us. But Rath declared that he was really tired and not going anywhere. So it was decided to spend the night at Bhojbasa. We were initially reluctant at the idea of staying in a tent packed with 20 people. But the guest-house was full and the available rooms in the Ashram were really small and unclean.

Rath went to sleep but Satti and I were feeling fresh after the lunch and decided to explore the surroundings. We figured that Gaumukh is probably too far at 4km. Instead we decided to go to the base of the snow peaks in front of us. What we didn't realize at the moment was that what looked like only a couple of kilometers was infact a lot further away. As it turned out we ended up reaching Gaumukh without getting any nearer to the peaks. Both of us left Bhojbasa around 3pm.

It was a nice gentle trek and we were walking at a leisurely pace soaking in the wonderful scenery. After a couple of kms we realized our folly that the snow peaks were actually the Bhagirathi peaks and very far away. We changed plans to go till Gaumukh. Somewhere before Gaumukh we had our first glimpse of the snow covered Shivaling peak.A kilometer before Gaumukh the trail ends abruptly and is replaced by a rocky terrain. One has to pick his way through rocks and boulders. Just before Gaumukh there is a small shrine of Lord Shiva.

As we approached the origin of the river, we were a little confused. It appeared that the Bhagirathi was flowing out of the mouth of a small mountain. Where was the glacier, the river of ice, we wondered. We drew closer to the U shaped mouth of the river, making our way forward along the river bank. We noticed that most pilgrims had stopped near the shrine but we wanted to get as close as possible to the mouth. We were warned to be careful of the falling stones.

We continued inching closer, climbing over small rocks and boulders along the edge of the slope. Slowly we began detecting flecks of white under the mud and rocks. It was then the reality hit us like a lighting. The small mountain that surrounded us from three sides was solid ice covered with mud and rubble. In front of us, Bhagirithi was flowing out of a solid cross-section of 200 feet of ice. Huge chunks of compacted ice were falling off the face of the glacier into the river. At the very top of the glacier, like a crust of crunchy chocolate on a vanilla bar, was a 30 to 50 foot layer of mud and rock, the debris dragged down the mountains by the flow of glacial ice. We were amazed at the enormity of the scene. It was unlike anything either of us had seen before.

Totally mesmerized by the surroundings, we walked till the very edge of the glacial wall. We photographed each other against the background of ice. Stepping carefully over a few large stones positioned across the path of the river, got us a third of the way towards the opposite bank. We sat down on the last stone and put our legs in the freezing water. There we were alone, surrounded by the glacier, at the origin of the Ganges, with the river flowing beneath us. Both of us were two awed to speak much. We just sat there for a long time.

I wouldn't say I felt very peaceful there. On the contrary, I was a bit nervous, aware of a strong force around us. Nature was at its dynamic best here. Ganges was flowing down with a fury around us. Chunks of ice were falling off the glacier into the river and being carried downstream by the flow. Small stones and pebbles were rolling down the slope near us. I knew that the glacier, that once existed till Gangotri, is receding rapidly each year.

The realization of this powerful and dynamic force, brought contradictory emotions inside me. On one hand, I realized that it was probably not very safe to be sitting so close to the glacier and we should go back. On the other hand, I wanted to surrender myself to the intoxicating force and be there for all eternity. Lost in the confusing emotions, I was brought to my senses by a most remarkable incident that I would remember all my life. Suddenly there was a loud thunderous sound, and even before realizing what had happened, the sixth sense was alerting me to some danger. I looked up to see a huge chunk of ice, the size of a big car or a bus, cracking from the face of the glacier and falling down into the opposite end of the river. The chunk displaced a huge wave in the river that traveled straight towards us, threatening to sweep us away. I clearly remember feeling that it was all going to end here. Within a moment adrenalin kicked in and we were on our feet in a flash. Satti shouted 'Bhaag' (run) but before we could flee the wave broke across our bodies drenching us.

Looking back at the incident, I realize that in the moment of panic, our shocked mind had greatly exaggerated the danger that the wave presented to us. It was a big wave but it died before it reached us. In the end it was like getting soaked by a big wave at Marine Drive. We were never in any real danger, but the emotions that ran through us were as real as it gets. We were visibly shaken and drenched. The whole incident would not have lasted more than a couple of seconds. But things seemed to happen in slow motion and even after a year I still remember everything clearly. Thinking about it still gets adrenalin flowing to my veins and it will remain one of the most memorable moments of my life. Afterwards, we shared a loud nervous laughter. We decided to get the hell out of there before another of those big chunks fall over us this time. I still tease Satti about how he had panicked and shouted 'Bhaag' at the top of his voice. But he realizes that I had panicked as much as he had.

Back at the Shrine, we refocused our thoughts and headed towards Bhojbasa. Instead of following the trek that curves away, we decided to walk along the river. A little further we came across a tent belonging to a couple of researchers. They were staying at Gaumukh to study the rate at which the glacier was receding and the factors responsible. The glacier which forms a mass of ice about 18 miles long, is retreating at a rate of more than 100 feet a year. While the glacier has been retreating since measurements began in 1842, the rate of retreat, which was around 62 feet per year between 1935 and 1971, has almost doubled. Global warming is mainly responsible for this drastic change. At such a rapid retreat, a gradual increase in droughts, flash floods, and landslides are really something to be worried about.

We were feeling a little lost, when we came across an army camp. We walked into the camp and had a chat with some of the army men. They were posted at Gaumukh to learn mountaineering skills on the glacier. The next day, we actually saw them in action on the vertical ice cliffs with their ice axes and crampons. After a quick chat, we asked for the directions and rejoined the trek.

The light was fading fast and we increased our pace to make sure we made it back to Bhojbasa before dark. We stopped at the ashram to deliver a message that someone at Gaumukh had sent for his fellow travelers. We reached our tent to find Rath safely tucked under the blankets. Soon we got rid of our shoes and joined him. The dinner was again aaloo paranthas.

A lot of other people came back from Gaumukh and started filling the tent. I observed that almost 80% of the people around me were Bengalis. I have continued to notice a similar trend in almost all of my treks. Bengalis have an insatiable desire for travel that makes them pack their bags and leave for an adventure at the first opportunity.Around 9 pm, I learned that a group in the tent was still waiting for a couple of people to come back from Gaumukh. I was surprised and wondered how they would be able to make their way back in the night. Going outside the tent, I got my answer. An almost full moon was filling the entire valley with a milky white light. Those who haven't been to the hills on a full moon night, would probably never realize how bright the moonlight can be. I felt we could easily trek till Tapovan in this light. This made me regret our decision, to not go to Tapovan, even more.

I dragged Satti out of the tent for a walk. It was a wonderful experience to walk in the soft moonlight. Since that night, I have always wanted to do a longer trek under full moon. After following the trail to Gaumukh for a while, we descended down the valley towards the river. We reached the bank and sat down on a rock. It was wonderfully peaceful this time round. I have known Satti for a long time. He is an unusually quiet guy and its difficult to drag him into a conversation. He doesn't hold strong opinions about most things except cricket and football. I am not a very talkative person myself. So we were mostly quite sitting there along the river under full moon. But sometimes quite moments goes a long way in cementing bonds of friendship and I felt this was one such moment.

By the time we got back to the tent, everyone was gearing up for sleep. All of us tucked ourselves under blankets. It had been a long day. We had walked about 25 km, that was the most I had done in a day till then. I was hoping for a refreshing sleep but had no such luck. I heard someone snoring loudly. The disease seemed contagious , for soon I could hear atleast 3 more snoring sounds. Two of them were coming from Satti and Rath who were asleep on my either side, giving me a complete surround sound experience. I tried to go to sleep but without any success. I was so frustrated I wanted to kill both of them. I tried shaking them but that only turned off the music for a short while. I wondered how the others were able to sleep. The whole night passed in complete agony for me. I was able to get only brief moments of sleep throughout the night. Not a good ending to an otherwise wonderful day...

Day 3 - Bhojbasa to Tapovan via Gaumukh - back to Bhojbasa

We woke up to a beautiful sunny morning. After a cup of tea, it was time for the morning routines. I asked the tent owner about the toilets. He handed me a bottle and pointed towards the rocks. It took some time for the cruel reality to sink in, before I started walking gingerly towards the pointed direction. Like so many other firsts on the trek, this was also a new experience for me. I made sure I got as far as possible and sat behind a rock to do the needful.

After breakfast we started for the day's journey. The walk till Gaumukh was already familiar to us. Instead of going to the mouth of the glacier this time, we climbed over the northern side. The holy trail ends at Gaumukh and the path becomes dodgy after that. We climbed to the top of the glacier snaking through loose debris and hopping over a few boulders. The route here changes frequently due to the movement of the glacier. We were a bit disoriented at first and relied on our guide for directions. However, pretty soon we realized that piles of stones were kept on the higher rocks to mark the way.

After reaching level, we turned south to cross the glacier. Huge crevasses in the path reminded us that we were actually on a huge glacier. Few accidents have been known to happen where a person got trapped inside after falling through one of these gaps. We could hear water trickling underneath.

Going higher, we spotted a team from the Indian army, practicing mountaineering techniques on the glacier. Few members were climbing a vertical wall of ice. They were laboriously making their way up with the help of ice-axes and crampons, while their team members held the rope for them. Similar exercise was going on another 75 degree ice slope. We were told that a team would later be attempting to summit one of the Bhagirathi peaks.

Our walk had become pretty laborious itself. We were beginning to feel the effect of steep climb and high altitude. The bad path was not making things any easier. We were panting for breath and stopping frequently for a rest.

We ran into a Sadhu on the way. He was dressed in a vest, light jacket and lungi. He had a big beard and his long braided hair was wrapped around his head with a turban. He had sat down for a rest. As we approached him, he asked us if we would like to have some Charas. We were intrigued by this offer but declined politely. Then he proceeded to take out a 'chilam' from his pockets and lighted it up. He exclaimed that he was badly in need of some energy before the final climb.

Sadhu Baba had set off on the 'char-dham' yaatra from Rishikesh on foot. He had already been to Badrinath and Kedarnath. A devotee of Lord Shiva, Babaji wandered in the mountains in his rubber slippers and light clothing. He was without any provisions, money or spare clothing. He used to eat whatever other devotees offered him. Most of the time he was high on charas. Although I didn't approve of his chosen lifestyle, I took an immediate liking to the Baba. He was lost in a world of his own. Unlike usual Sadhus, he never preached or tried to coerce any money from us.

Babaji joined us for the rest of the journey. Soon we were standing beneath a nearly vertical wall of stones and debris around 1000 feet high. We looked for a way around it. When our guide told us that the way is straight up, we thought he was joking.The climb was both exhausting and dangerous. We had to stop for breath after every 10 steps. The debris didn't allow for a good footing. One slip and there was nothing to break the fall for a long way. Few slippery corners found us on all fours clinging to the slope.

As we climbed, we got a wonderful view of the snow covered Bhagirathi. Bhagirathi are the group of three high peaks namely Bhagirathi - I,II,III with the height of 6856, 6512, 6454 meters.

A little more effort took us to the top that opened into a large meadow at the base of Shivaling. This was Tapovan named so because several Sadhus choose this spot for extended meditations (tap). To be honest, I was a bit disappointed. The place was beautiful but I had expected something much more remarkable after my friends' description. There was no carpet of grass and no blooming flowers. The place was a vast field of stones and dried grass. Perhaps it wasn't the best time to be there or perhaps going there with a preconceived image was an even bigger mistake. However, the journey to Tapovan was most memorable and the backdrop of Bhagirathi and Shivaling peaks made for a splendid view. Totally exhausted by the climb we lied down on the grass for a long time.


There are a couple of ashrams at Tapovan.Both offer places to stay, food to eat, tea. My office friends had stayed at the Shimla Baba's ashram where they had kerosene khichdi. Our guide led us to the ashram of Bengali Mata. The ashram was built around a small cave under a huge boulder. Bengali Mata had been staying at Tapovan throughout the year for a long time. She was dressed in normal clothes.

All of us sat down on mats laid out in front of the ashram. We were immediately offered some tea. Our own Sadhu Baba joined us a little later with another companion. The person belonged to Calcutta and worked for Ramakrishna Trust. A pronounced bachelor he was extremely fond of traveling. There was another interesting fellow from Delhi. A businessman who had been coming to Tapovan for a full month for the last 8 years. I told him if I had that much time I would go and see all the other places. There is certainly no shortage of places in Himalayas. But he insisted he felt a peace there unlike he had ever felt anywhere else.

Sadhu Baba lit another 'chilam' and started getting high. He shared the chilam with a group of porters that had brought provisions for Bengali Mata. The gentleman from Delhi started talking about spirituality and stuff. He had a huge problem with the Sadhu Baba and his way of living. Rath also was making fun of Baba. He commented that Sadhu Baba must have seen Lord Shiva a lot of times. Sadhu Baba didn't take the slightest offense. Infact I doubt if he ever paid any real attention to the conversation. He lived in a different world of his own.

Bengali Mata invited us into the cave for the lunch. It was a neat little cave. She actually had gas stove for cooking. The food was unexpectedly delicious considering the circumstances. I have read about the bad experiences some other people have had at the ashrams at Tapovan. They complained that the Baba's are just running unlicensed hotels in the name of religion. They are greedy and overcharge for food. I must say that I never got that feeling. Although I never thought about Bengali Mata as a saint, she certainly appeared as a kind and generous person. She was affectionate in serving us food and tea. She never demanded any money from us. While leaving, our guide told us to give 100 Rs. I assumed he was talking 100 Rs per person, but it was just 100 Rs for the four of us. I don't think that was excessive at all for tea and lunch for 4 people at that height.

By the time we started back, the sun had gone behind clouds, and chilly air was starting to blow. I felt a light headache, no doubt the combined effect of altitude, cold air and sleepless night. Unfortunately, I didn't have any woolen cap with me. The descent was even trickier than the ascent. We were struggling for footholds due to all the debris and small stones on the path. One look down the slope reminded us that any lack in concentration could prove costly. Carefully we got down till Gaumukh. We spent some time at the glacier, though we didn't go as close as the last time. My headache was killing me by now. We started back for Bhojbasa. Those 4 kms proved to be the longest journey of our trek so far. My head ached with each step. It appeared to me as if Bhojbasa had receded till Gangotri. I remembered how we had just strolled to Gaumukh and back, the previous day. But now it took all my strength and will power to go on. The sight of our tents restored some energy and I raced to the destination. Once inside, i swallowed a Dispirin and went to sleep. When I woke up a couple of hours later, my headache was gone but I didn't feel too energetic. So I had my dinner and went right back to sleep...

Day 4 - Bhojbasa to Gangotri - back to Delhi

Next day we left for Bhojbasa early morning. It took us only a couple of hours to get down to Gangotri. At Gangotri we were amazed to see so many people and vehicles. Things had seemed so normal when we had left but now it was crazy. We struggled to find our car. Our driver told us that it was Ganga Dusshera that day, and was considered very auspicious for a holy dip. Therefore so many devotees had flocked the place and more were coming in. We told him that we are going to the temple and would be back quickly. The small market before the temple was jammed with people. We made our way through the sea of bodies towards the temple, only to find an impossibly long queue there. It seemed unlikely that we would be able to get out before a couple of hours so we dropped the plan. We bought small cans from the market and went to the banks of the Ganga. Some people were bathing in the freezing cold water but we weren't in a brave mood. So we just washed our face and limbs, and filled the cans with the Holy water. Around 11 am we left for Delhi. But the huge inflow of vehicles on the narrow road created a massive jam. It took more than an hour for the jam to clear. Once we were on our way, we only took a couple of stops for lunch and dinner for the whole journey. We were back in Delhi by 4 am, just in time for a brief nap before another day at Office.

Trek pics